Attempt #1- January 9, 2011- Bailed at 13,300ish’ due to Blizzard ConditionsHikers-BrutonBen Howland
MountainMicah83
I had been saving Mt. Bierstadt and Mt. Evans for winter attempts in my 14er quest and doing harder ones in the summer. Another of my goals is to do the Sawtooth in calendar winter as well so January presented a first shot at it. With the Georgetown side of Guanella pass being closed down low to a rock slide at the time, we drove in Ben’s 4-runner up from the grant side on Saturday January 8 and made it to about half a mile below duck lake after digging ourselves out a couple of times down lower. Matt, on his new AT setup was acquainting himself and trying to learn a new skill quite different from snowboarding.
The snow was windblown and packed where some steps with the skis and skins would sometimes stay on top and sometimes sink up to a couple of feet. It was quite labor intensive and quite annoying as we made our way up to where we would later camp.
As we made our way a few miles up the road to the summer trailhead at the top of the pass, it began to snow as a storm came in appearing much worse than predicted on NOAA. Our original goal was to actually camp on the summit of Bierstadt as Matt and I did on Torrey’s last winter but weather and energy levels caused us to begrudgingly pitch the tent somewhere down in the willows not too far from the summer start. The snow in the willows was completely unconsolidated and even with skis, every step was cutting trail a couple of feet down and the fierce wind was cutting right into us. It didn’t help either that Matt had blowout diarrhea and really shouldn’t have went on that trip in the first place. We eventually packed down a spot as flat as we could and parked it for the night. Yes we squeeze 3 of us in that small tent. It keeps is extra warm thataway.
After waking and surviving the night of matt flying out of the tent to blow his guts, we melted snow for our water, cooked oatmeal (while still lying in the bags to keep toasty) and we were out and about readying for the day. While Bierstadt is still a 14er and still commands its own respect, we felt comfortable pushing for a summit in the weather.
As we wandered through the willows cutting trail with skis on and still sinking to our waists, we eventually broke the small “headwall” and headed up a portion that was finally windblown. Once we made that ridge, the winds were intense and chilling to the bone. Matt was hurting from being sick and I was hurting from the cold. Ben was psyched and wanted to push for the summit but the weather was getting worse and worse and seemed like it wouldn’t let up. We made the group decision to turn back and give it a go on another day. We made it about half way to the summit from where the following photo was taken before we decided to call it.
Coming back down through the Willows, you can grasp how miserable it was by the next picture. Ben had snowshoes on and it is possible to see how much they were helping.
Exhausted from the postholing and bone chilling winds, we finally made it back to the tent and all crashed for a nap before packing up and driving back home. On the way back to the car, our tracks up the road were completely windblown and it was like cutting trail all over again. There was about 8-10” of new fresh snow at the car when we arrived and several fresh avalanches that were down to the bare grass to our west across the valley. It was a trick getting back down the pass and I imagine that was the last weekend until May that vehicles could even drive within 2 or 3 miles of where we made it to. The drive back home was pretty bad even on the highways.
Attempt #2- June 5, 2011.- Read on to find out if we made it!HikersBen Howland
MountainMicah83Baz Agastus
When Steve Gladbach was planning his final 14er on Evans this past winter, my plan was to tag along with the group and then bag Bierstadt and the Sawtooth with Dancesatmoonrise and celebrate with the crew on Evans. 70+ MPH forecasted winds caused Steve to postpone the trip and I was not able to make the successful attempt on Evans due to prior commitments at the time. Finally, weather begins warming up and the snow is melting and Dancesatmoonrise and I are talking about nabbing the Wilson-Diente Traverse and Wilson peak. We make tentative plans for 4-5 June to get all 3 in a day car to car and give me the 4th of 4 on the great traverses. Seeing the amount of snow still in the San Juans from a few TR’s over memorial weekend and the severely warm forecasted temps leading up to this weekend, we decided to wait a few weeks. While we were confident we could pull it off, warming snow that doesn’t freeze at night can be a real danger as well as slow us down on the traverse. Now with an open weekend and an alpine craving that needed to be satisfied, I invited Ben for another shot at Bierstadt, the Sawtooth and Evans. Thankfully he was in.
2:30 and my alarm confusingly wakes me up after 3 hours of crappy sleep in my own bed. I pour my coffee, pack the car and load the dog before departing to meet Ben for the Drive. NOAA was forecasting 20% chance afternoon thunderstorms and no freeze overnight freeze. We knew we needed to be up and down early before any chance of weather.
Finally 5:45AM and we were on the trail-
With much warmer weather, Baz, my best mountaineering partner, was ready to accompany us. He has faithfully waited through this winter since he hasn’t been in the alpine since Chicago basin in September. He recognizes the gear for 14ers and wouldn’t leave my side the past two days as I gathered what I needed.
Not the clearest pic, but you can see that the tops of the willows were poking out. Much to our surprise, it ended up freezing overnight and we had pretty good luck staying on top of the snow without putting our slowshoes on. The trick was stay on the snow and away from the willows. My 200lb self postholed quite a bit more than Ben as we made our way across the valley determined to make the top.
Not too much later, we make the headwall in T-Shirts and the sun isn’t even showing yet from this west side of the mountain. We keep pressing for the summit.
Looking back west, it is easy to see how much snow is still up there. Skiers Dream!
Eventually the sun rises between Mt. Spaulding and the Sawtooth.
Continuing our quest at a decent pace, we start to decide on our line to the summit. When the trail is still covered by snow, you get to pick your path.
I keep excitedly staring at the sawtooth excited to finally have my chance.
Only problem is that the sun keeps blinding me every time I look.
At this point, we have almost continuous snow that was super solid supporting us towards our more direct line towards the top.
With a lot of hard work lately and not too much exercise, Ben pauses for a breather. At this point, I had to throw my softshell on and this crazy is still in short sleeves. I haven’t mentioned it yet but as you can see in the top of the next picture, the sky is still very hazy from the fires going on around the state and in Arizona.
Our progress slowing, we make our way a bit further.
If you look close, you can see the tiny sets of dots following behind on the mountain.
And a bit higher vantage shows the amount of haze from the smoke making my pictures not as pretty.
Seeing other folks push up closer to us, I broke away from Ben determined not to let anyone catch me. Not that it is that big a deal but I needed the push to get me going. I kicked hard the last few hundred feet to the summit.
Making the ridge about 100’ or less below the summit, I snapped a shot of the corniced east side. Some nice steep lines towards were waiting to be torn up back there.
I make the summit about 2 hours and fifteen minutes after stepping off from the car. Ten or so minutes later, Ben joins Baz and myself for the party. Woo Hoo. I sign the summit register as #43 while reading several signatures stating something like “Awesome… My first 14er.” I am such an exposure junkie, that I would prefer class 4 and 5 to anything else but I’m glad to have this one finally done. Later I realize that I lost count and actually have done 42 unique 14er summits and 4 repeats. I think the reason I lose count is the many times I go out in winter to “check” conditions and possibly get lucky with a summit or most likely have to turn around and go back home. I love every one of those trips and don’t count them as failures but rather learning experiences, conditions checks, and just more time in the environment that I love.
For Ben, this is number 8 and probably quite mellow for his 14er expectations from his previous 7 on Pikes peak Barr trail in Winter, Crestone Traverse, Humboldt, Maroon Traverse, and Capitol. For Baz it is 17, but he kicks both our butts on everything class 3 and under.
Peering down at the Sawtooth Traverse, I am excited to see the conditions. Firm snow and then dry rock in the tough sections. With a still smoky sky but not any scary clouds in sight, we start our way down what another hiker on the summit called “spicy.” About 100’ or so down Ben stops me and tells me that he is really tired and thinks it best we don’t do the traverse. I was super bummed that we weren’t going to get the chance to make sawtooth but I am very thankful for Ben’s honesty. It takes a real man to say he is not feeling up to something. Although bummed, I am super glad he told me because I would rather turn around when it is possible than end up in some epic situation because my partner was having an off day and failed to speak up. We returned to the summit and decided to return the way we came and hold off on the sawtooth for another day. Now at about 8:45 AM with at least one tick for the day, we make our way back down towards the car.
While it was quite chilly on the summit, we were back in short sleeves 15 mins later. We must have passed another 20 folks on our way down as they ascended. It was super warm out and the snow was softening rapidly and we kept commenting to ourselves how much they would sink in the warming snow. We made it back to the willows with the shoes still on our backs. After a few postholes up to my thighs, I decided to put mine on. Ben never did use his. There was one spot where we actually found one of the infamous foot bridges showing through.
One more scary obstacle and we were home free. A snow melt river rushing through the snow banks. I make a jump over with Baz quickly on my heels. Then as Ben jumps, the bank breaks off and he doesn’t make it across. He landed in the waist deep rushing water and smashed his ribs into the opposite bank. It looked like it was really painful and cold.
Making the last small bit to the car around 1030, there were still folks leaving the parking lot making their goal for the summit. We made the last quick jaunt as I was able to grab this parting shot of Baz tight on my heals as always.
Until next time…
See you at the top!
